Canine Activities: Obedience Trials

I got this flyer from the WSOTC in Washington. The name has been changed again - originally it was like Variable ST but AKC changed it and who knows may still. This was sent to me earlier in the month. So they still had the idea of calling it VST.

"The AKC Obedience Department is working to develop a new tracking event: 'Variable Surface Tracking'. The event can take place in a city, or parking lots, and in light industrial grounds. The track will be on grass areas about 50% of the time and on non-vegetated areas 50% of the time. Non-vegetated areas can include cement, asphalt and gravel surfaces such as driveways and parking lots. The track will be 600-800 yards, be 1-3 hours old, have 3-4 turns and 4 articles. The track will not have intentional cross-tracks, but natural cross traffic will be considered a part of the normal track.

Workshops are being held around the country to introduce this new event to the fancy and develop the rules do that it will become a practical and popular event once it is approved by the AKC Board of Directors. Attendance at one of these workshops is one requirement for grandfathering TDX judges to judge this event.

John Barnard, the head of AKC tracking, is a nationally recognized expert on tracking and scent work. He spent three decades with the Baltimore Police Department K-9 unit. During that time, he trained other law enforcement and national security officials in the intricacies of canine scent work and assisted several scientific studies concerning the use of dogs' olfactory senses."

Overview of the CKC Obedience Exercises

Description of Exercises in each ring

Requirements for titles

Overview of the SKC Obedience Exercises

Description of Exercises in each ring

Requirements for Titles

Overview of the UKC Obedience Exercises

Description of Exercises in each ring

Requirements for titles

Opportunities for Mixed Breed Dogs

The happy exception to this is the United Kennel Club. In an agreement reached with AMBOR on February 3, 1994, the UKC began issuing LP's to mixed breeds (who must be neutered, as all UKC LP dogs have been required to be) and AMBOR became the national parent club for the UKC mixed breed dogs. Effective May 1, 1994, all mixed breed dogs registered with the UKC participate in all UKC licensed Obedience Trials and Hunting Retreiver events and earn UKC titles and degrees. As additional programs are developed by the UKC, these dogs may also be allowed to participate. These could include Tracking, Agility, and Terrier (go to ground) Trials.

There are a number of additional resources for the owner of a mixed breed dog who is interested in obedience trials. Contact any of the following:

American Mixed Breed Obedience Registration (AMBOR)
205 1st Street, S.W.
New Prague, MN 56071
612-758-4598
offers titles to dogs in rings with the UKC plus it's own set of titles

Mixed Breed Dog Clubs of America
c/o Phyllis Massa
1937 Seven Pines
Creve Coeur, MO 63146
offers obedience titles of their own (registered dogs must be neutered).

Also see ASCA above.

PupPeroni Classic Tournaments (previously known as Cycle, Gaines)

The Tournaments were originally sponsored by Gaines, then Cycle and now PupPeroni.

For additional information write:

Quaker Professional Services
Pet Food Division
P.O. Box 049001, Suite 23-1
Chicago, IL 60604-9001

Eastern, Western, and Central regional tournaments

Placings in the Divisions are determined on the basis of total points lost, qualifying or non-qualifying with prizes to the first ten placements in all Divisions.

Titles and scores are accepted from the American Kennel Club, the United Kennel Club, the Australian Shepherd Club of America (Australian Shepherds only), the Canadian Kennel Club, and the American Mixed Breed Obedience Registry. All three scores must be from the same registry. Dual titled dogs must compete in the division of the highest title.

Entrance Requirements

An AKC Obedience Trial Champion is automatically eligible. Other dogs that may enter must meet the following requirements:

1. Earned a confirmed Utility title in one of the above mentioned registries, prior to the closing date of the Regional.

2. Must have earned three scores in Open B averaging 193 or better, and three scores in Utility A or B averaging 193 or better in competition at approved trials prior to the closing date of the Regional.

Division II - Novice Dog

1. Earned a confirmed Companion Dog title in one of the above mentioned registries, prior to the closing date of the Regional. The dog must not have earned a third leg towards a CDX prior to the date of the Regional in which they are competing.
2. Must have earned three scores averaging 193 or better in Novice A or B competition at approved trials prior to the related Regional closing date.

Division III - Open Dog

1. Earned a confirmed Companion Dog Excellent title in one of the above mentioned registries, prior to the closing date of the Regional. The dog must not have earned a third leg towards a UD prior to the date of the Regional in which they are competing.

2. Must have earned three scores averaging 193 or better in Open A or B competition at approved trials prior to the related Regional closing date.

Swedish Obedience Trials

The Swedish Kennel Club has sponsored competitive obedience since the late 60s (imported from England?). Obedience was not particularly popular to start with, but it has become more and more popular, particularly during the last 10 years. Today there are approx. 24,000 obedience trials carried out each year, which is quite a lot considering the small size of the country. Agility was introduced around 1986, and is now extremely popular, especially among young people. Most recent is Flyball, introduced 2-3 years ago.

The Swedish Working Dog Association (SBK, Svenska Brukshunds-Klubben) also organizes competitive obedience - which it has done for a very long time. This form of obedience is only slightly different from that organized by the [Swedish] Kennel Club. Any competition, whether in trecking, or schutz-training etc., also includes obedience. Obedience is thus compulsory, no matter what special branch you are competing in.

Levels of Obedience

In levels I and II a dog has to earn 160-200 points for 1st place, 140-159,5 for 2nd place, and 100-139,5 for 3rd place.

In levels III and Elite a dog has to earn 255-300 points for 1st place, 224-254,5 for 2nd place, and 192-223,5 for 3rd place.

A dog that has achived a 1st place in level I can move up and compete in level II, or, continue to compete in level I until it has three 1st places, in which case it will receive an "obedience diplom" (Lp-1). After three 1st places in level II the dog receives an "Lp-2", and in level III an "Lp-3". To become an obedience champion a dog must win three 1st places at elite-level, and on top of that the dog must have the figure 2 from a conformation class (i.e. it must conform to the standard of its breed). Border Collies can only become obedience champions if they have passed a general test for herding dogs, i.e. they must be approved herding dogs.

To participate the dog has to be at least 10 months old (for the elite class, 15 months old). Any dog old enough may participate, even non-registered dogs, mixed breed dogs, and male dogs with only one testicle. However, to become an obedience champion or to receive a CACIOB (the best 1st-place winner in an international competition) the dog has to be registered and non-cryptorchid.

A dog that has received an obedience championship is called Svensk Lydnads Champion (SLCH). A dog that has become champion in any of the working dog branches, such as tracking, is called Svensk Bruks Champion (SBCH). To be a Swedish Champion because of exterior merits, i.e. from participation in conformation classes, is called Svensk Utstallnings Champion (SUCH). Especially talented and beautiful dogs can thus become Trippel-Champions, and this is really something.

General obedience (Swedish Kennel Club style)

Bahamas Obedience Trials

Stewarding

As one who LIKES stewarding, here's my thoughts on the matter:

1. Expect to have the opportunity to learn A LOT.
2. Possibly expect to get chastised if you aren't paying attention, especially if it becomes a habit. Most judges I've stewarded for are pretty forgiving, especially if you're usually there for them.
3. The job isn't terribly difficult, but you have to pay attention. Remember that you can contribute to the ring running smoothly or you can hold it up, depending on how seriously you take the job.
4. Hopefully, you've had some sort of training as to what to do.
5. BE AT THE RING EARLY. I like to be there at LEAST 1/2 hour before judging is to start.
6. Ask the judge for special instructions. Usually, they will tell you things like:
   • where each team should be positioned when they enter the ring.
   • where to place the gloves on the DR.
   • where to stand for the figure 8.
   • where to stand during group exercises.
   • when and where they want things like dumbbells and articles.
   • Lots of other things are likely to come up. Every judge does something a little different than everyone else.
7. Expect to make mistakes at first, but remember that after the first couple of teams in each class things will smooth out. Every judge I've worked with has been more than forgiving of these initial mistakes.
8. Try to think ahead. What will the judge want me to do next?
9. Smile a lot.
10. Expect some nasty exhibitors, but most are nice. Treat the nasty ones politely anyway. You might turn 'em around.
11. Think from the perspective of the exhibitors. What would you like to have from the stewards? There isn't a whole lot you can do here, but I always make a few passes over the ring during the day to look for things that could distract the dogs (food, leaves, hairballs, candy wrappers, etc.) and remove them.
12. Bite your tongue. Don't make comments that could make someone feel bad.

Common Handler Errors

(Suggestions from a number of people, especially Nancy Gagliardi Little; collected by Ruth Ginzberg)

Recall

1. Bowing when giving command
2. Improper hand position
3. Body english for the finish (dipping shoulder, moving feet, etc)
4. Head movement
5. Moving fingers on the finish
6. Moving arm position after voice command to finish is given
7. Overly loud command
8. Double commanding (signal and voice) for finish
9. Giving the "Stay" command out of heel position (as or after handler steps out)

1. Don't leave your dog on the crack of the mat or a high or low spot if showing outdoors.
2. After leaving the dog and going to the other side, don't look up at the judge until you have positioned yourself and are ready for the command.
3. Ensure that there is enough room behind you for the finish.
4. Position yourself across the ring so that the dog will not have to sit on the crack of the mat.
5. Use the same tone of voice that is normally given for the recall command (many handlers will change the tone of their voice when they are nervous and the dog doesn't understand)
6. Leave your dog by stepping out on your right foot (or which ever foot you normally leave on).
7. Make sure you have your dogs full attention before leaving him so he doesn't get up as you leave.
8. Make sure your command is loud enough, if there is lots of noise (i.e. PA system on and off, etc)

Long sit/down

1. Not knowing that if dog breaks the owner SHOULD NOT return to the line with other competitors
2. Late leaving dog
3. Not returning to heel position
4. Positioning the dog or touching the collar (you can't touch them)
5. Handler zeros in previous exercises and doesn't return for Sits and Downs (you must return or ask the judge to be excused).
6. Extra signals from across the ring.

1. Don't position your dog on the crack of the mat or (if outdoors) a high or low spot.
2. Look around before getting started and pick up any debris near your dog to avoid sniffing.
3. Clip your armband to your leash - and lay down so it won't get knocked or blown away.
4. Make sure that your dog will lay down straight (especially if you are showing a large dog) to avoid having to reposition your dog.
5. When the judge asks if everyone is ready before the exercise starts SPEAK UP, if you aren't ready - don't rush yourself and chance a zero.
6. Cross your arms to make the exercise look different than the recall.
7. If your dog doesn't go down on the first command, give another - the exercise doesn't start until the handlers leave (except for rough handling,etc).
8. Make sure you have your dogs full attention before leaving him so he doesn't get up as you leave.

Heel on lead

1. Tight lead (loose pts for lagging AND tight lead) This could also cause a zero for the exercise, if the judge feels that s/he was not given an opportunity to see the dog work on leash
2. Adapting speed to dog (Especially not walking briskly.)
3. Not changing speed
4. Lead corrections
5. Not heeling so DOG IS ON MAT
6. Stepping into dog on sit
7. Too many steps on the halt.
8. Anticipating judges commands (going back to normal after the fast before the judges command, turning early, etc)
9. Pausing or stopping on about turn (heels should never come together - the turn should be made in motion)
10. Rounding corners on the left turn to avoid crowding by the dog.
11. Checking each sit after the halts
12. Extra body movement on the "Heel Command"
13. Moving the leash position after starting to heel.

1. Don't stop too quickly on the halts - many handlers panic when the judge commands and they stop on a dime.
2. When the judge asks if you are ready, LOOK at your dog first before you reply.
3. If the dog lags (i.e. on the figure 8) don't let out the lead, let it tighten up - the judge will take a lag only (the dog caused the tight leash)
4. Don't look back at the dog - it will only cause the dog to lag more.
5. Many handlers forget to give the "Heel" command after each command to "Forward" by the judge.
6. If you have questions, before the exercise starts (about anything - since this is the first exercise) ask the judge.
7. Crossing the mat on the fast time. Crossing the mat is a problem that occurs when the handler doesn't walk or run in a straight line. Either the handler moves across the mat to the left (into the dog) which seems to be more common, or moves across the mat to the right (away from the dog).

Figure eight

1. See Heel on Leash
2. Slowing down when the dog is on the outside

1. Make sure to give the dog enough room when executing the inside post. Many handlers cut too close and the dog is forced to drop back into a lag.
2. Give yourself enough room at the start of the exercise (especially for those with large dogs) so you can take at least two steps before going into the turn.
3. Unless you have a forging dog, always start the exercise by going to the left. If you go immediately to the right (dog is expected to get up from a sit and go into a fast), it start the dog off into a lag.

Heel free

1. See Above.
2. Hand position - a) Both hands down and "swinging" or b) Right hand down and "swinging" and the left hand held up at your waist. The hand position can change for the fast, but must immediately return to the previous position on the normal.
3. Changing hand position after starting.

1. Forgetting that it's permissible to issue a second command (point loss but no zero/NQ)
2. Ensure that you give the "Heel" command first before stepping out to avoid leaving the dog sitting behind.

Stand

1. Touching while giving "stay" command
2. Backing away
3. Going too far (must be about 6 feet away)
4. Not returning to heel position.
5. Giving the "Stay" command out of heel position
6. Returning directly into heel position (not going behind the dog first)
7. Rough handling of the dog to position him
8. Extra commands to stay - "Stay/Stay" or "Wait...Stay"
9. Waiting for the judge to tell the handler to leave

1. Pace out the 6 foot distance ahead of time (or go about to where the judge is - that's usually 6 feet)
2. After standing the dog, move to heel position and take one last look at the dog before giving the command to stay.
3. If the dog doesn't stand up on the first command, physically stand the dog (don't use your feet)
4. Make sure you leave your dog on the foot that your normally leave him on (usually the right)
5. If the dog sits or moves from position after the judge has examined him and before you return, the dog has still qualified (lost major points, though)

Generally Common Handler Errors

1. Positioning the dog (knee, foot, hands) before exercises - you can't touch them at all to position them - even if the exercise is over.
2. Collar too loose or too tight (or illegal)
3. Handler not familiar with the rules ( when handler fills out an entry form and signs it, s/he is stating that s/he has read the rules and is familiar with them.
4. Enter and Exit the ring on a loose leash (yes, you must clip the leash on your dog before exiting)
5. Telling the judge that they are ready for an exercise when the dog is not in position. Always check your dog before replying that you are ready.
6. Neither judges or stewards may reveal any part of your score until after the class is over. The judge must, however, tell you whether you have qualified after your sits and downs.

Generally Common Helpful Hints

1. Make sure you praise your dog between exercises so they don't get stressed This way you can also keep the dog's attention on you.
2. If you need to, you can gently guide your dog by the collar
3. Teach the dog pivots, so that you can position the dog without repeatingly turning around and around (and around,and around....)
4. Make sure your dog is clean (judges HATE to touch dirty dogs)
5. Tie your hair back (if it is long)
6. Make sure your clothes don't interfere with the dog's movement.
7. Have a pleasant expression on your face, otherwise the dog will react to the difference in your personality (who is this strange person I'm with?)
8. Give all command in the same tone of voice as when you train.
9. Think about your handling - try to forget about the dog. You should have confidence in him by now. If you worry about something (or dwell on something) it will probably come true. Try to keep a positive attitude.
10. Always check to see if there are missing dogs (or dogs with conflicts) ahead of you). Never go to the steward's table with your dog.
11. Keep your dog away from you until just before you show. Do a brief warmup, but not too much.
12. Make sure that your dog has been exercised and will not foul the ring.
13. Arrive AT LEAST one hour before you show. Walk the dog through the whole show area, then put him away.
14. After the last sit and down group is complete, (if you have qualified), get your dog and warm them up for a run-off - no matter how you feel about your performance.
15. Watch at least 2 or 3 dogs performance before you show (unless you are the first or second dog) and plan where you will position yourself. Watch carefully, where each exercise is done and what the judges commands are.
16. Don't take gum into the ring (some judges consider it food). Empty your pockets of extra change or keys.
17. Don't bring your dog up to the ring entrance until the judge is ready for you - especially don't bring him up while the other dog is exiting.
18. If you place, show good sportsmanship by congratulating the other placers.
19. After the class is over, approach the judge and ask her/him if s/he would be willing to go over your score. Most judges are more than willing to do this after all the paperwork is complete - but they are not required.
20. You might want to get a photograph done if you get a placement or a C.D. that day.
21. Always verify your score at the superintendent's table after the judge has turned in the book. Sometimes there are errors. If you placed, make sure that your number is in the correct place.
22. If you place first, you will need to wait around until another class finishes with a first place that is higher than your score (for the High in Trial award)
23. Check (in the catalog) to see if you are eligible for any special prizes. (i.e. High Scoring Hound, High Scoring Senior Citizen, etc). Check before the trial, as sometimes you need to sign up for a possible prize. Always check afterwards as well.
24. Always verify that your dog's name (and your address) is listed correctly in the catalog (or on the entries that you receive in the mail)

1. Metal or nylon choke chains are OK. These should fit properly and not hang half way down the chest.
2. Leather buckle (flat or rolled) are OK.
3. Nylon or fabric buckle collars are OK. Some dissent on colors: solid and subdued colors are your best bet.
4. Quick snap, martingale, prong collars are not allowed. Bright colors dismissed by some judges. Prints, studded collars, decorated collars, not allowed.
5. No tags on collars.
6. A four to six foot fabric or leather leash is best. Again, avoid loud, decorated, or studded leashes.

Tips for dealing with Stress at the show

1. Keep the dog crated in the quietest spot you can find. Park your crate in a corner or against a wall, and cover it so your pup feels safe enough to sleep.

2. Don't keep your dog on the show site any longer than necessary. If you're finished at noon, go back to the motel and watch the Young and the Restless together.

3. Don't share a motel room with someone else who has dogs. Your pup has enough to do over the weekend without figuring out a new pack order.

4. Spend the first evening in the motel watching TV with your pup. Don't just park him there and go out partying. You can party later after he settles in. Actually, dogs like it best if you snuggle up and watch TV with them every night, but, HEY, they're dogs and we're people. The first-night rule is especially important if lots of other exhibitors are staying at your motel. This means lots of coming and going and (sorry to say) lots of barking. You're pup will feel a lot better about the whole thing if you're there to tell him to shut up and watch TV with him.

5. Never invite people to your motel room to party. Your dog needs the peace and quiet. Encourage other people to play host, and take them a box of wine to reinforce their hospitality.

6. If your pup is prone to any kind of digestive upset, bring water from home, or put him on bottled spring water before you leave so you can buy more while traveling. Bring Immodium just in case.

7. Bring some familiar toys from home for the motel room. It makes your pup feel at home and keeps him from shredding your luggage.

8. Unless you have a seasoned campaigner, don't try to do much training over the weekend. Showing is about as much as your pup can take, so get him trained before you go and let him rest between his appearances.

9. If your pup sleeps in a crate at home, bring the crate for him to sleep in at the show and in your motel room. If he usually sleeps on your bed at home, get a room with a big enough bed for the two of you and don't introduce any distractions.

10. Give your pup plenty of time to sleep. IMO, the way dog shows take most of the stuffing out of dogs is by keeping the poor buggers awake all day. On top of that, the different evironment and disruption of your pup's regular routine will make him want to sleep even more than he does at home. So let him sleep as much as he wants to. And get enough sleep yourself!

11. If you have a sleep-on-the-bed dog, BEFORE you leave home, put a sheet on top of the covers and let the dog sleep on top of it for a night or two. Then take THAT sheet, unlaundered, with you; put it on top of the motel bed. First, the dog will have its familiar smell to lie on; and second, the motel people will adore you for not getting hair all over everything including the bedspread.

(And, as I can hear Cindy reminding, take plenty of baggies for pickups!)

Making Treats

1. Beef liver, parbroiled and then baked to dry out.
2. Hot dogs:
   
   • turkey or chicken hot dogs dry out better than beef ones do
   • cut lengthwise in fours and slice for very small pieces to spit at dog
   • slice a hot dog very thinly (20-30 "coins"), lay on paper towels, sprinkle with garlic powder (NOT garlic salt), then put them in the microwave on high for 6-9 minutes, depending on the desired crunchiness
3. Assorted:
   • Kielbasa
   • string cheese
   • plain Cheerios
   • popcorn (unsalted, unbuttered)
   • Liv-A-Snaps (they are a bit crunchy, but they break into tiny pieces)
   • Freeze-dried liver (commercially available: expensive but long-lasting; easy to break up into tiny chunks)
4. biscuits:
   1 pound raw liver
   1 cup corn meal
   1 cup whole wheat flour
   tons of powdered garlic

   Puree the liver in the blender and mix the rest together into sticky gooey mess. Spread onto well greased baking pan and bake at 300 degrees until it is fairly dried out, but not browned. If you want, you can poke the bubbles that form on the top to keep them from separating from the rest, but it works fine if you don't.

   Allow to cool and cut into 1/2 inch squares. I store most of mine in the freezer though a small bag, if used frequently can be kept in the fridge. Caution: it goes bad really fast , i.e. starts growing cultures of it's own, so only keep small amounts unfrozen.

5. liver cubes Liquify (ugh) 1 lb. liver, for this I use chicken livers in a tub, and use all the liquid that comes with it. If you use vacuum packed frozed beef liver, add a tad of water. Add 1 cup flour, 1/2 cup corn meal, 1 tsp. onion powder, 1 tsp. minced garlic, 1 tsp. garlic salt, and 1 T. oregano. Spread on cookie sheet greased with oil (consistancy when spreading on sheet should be that of peanut butter. Cook at 350 degrees for 12-15 min. I like to make them 1/2 to 3/4 in thick. Cut up and freeze away. They do not take well to standing a room temp. for long periods of time!! So, defrost only what you will use in about 2 days.
6. Liver Buy the beef liver, place on a real plate (not plastic) in the micro- wave, while still frozen, and cook till brown. This makes very rubbery liver which is good in the breed ring, and good if you want the dog to knibble on the liver while teaching for example, stand from a sit. If you use this method, you can put it in your pocket and it is no longer moist. Oh yes, don't forget to sprinkle garlic on it before "nuking" it.
7. This was published in Front & Finish. Haven't met a dog that doesn't like them.

   1 lb liver (beef or pork)
   1 C Corn meal
   2 eggs
   1/2 C flour
   2-3 tea garlic powder
   2 Tbl oil

   Blend in food processor until smooth. Bake in greased 9 x 13 pan 20 minutes at 400 degrees. Cut into squares. Keep in frig. or can be frozen.

   Be forewarned....the house will smell when baking.

8. Liver pieces
   Take a pound of beef liver. Put it in water on the stove, add 1/4 tsp of garlic powder. Boil for 1/2 hour. Then remove , put on a cookie sheet or something similar and bake at low heat for another hour or so. (200 F) After that, cut up into small pieces. Smells like h*** when you make it but keeps wonderfully in the freezer, and the doggies love it. The broth from the boiling can also be used on dry food as an extra treat.

Acronym List

Assumptions

1. All titles are suffixes to dog's registered name if not otherwise noted.
2. Acronyms listed alphabetically.

Obedience titles - AKC & CKC

CD

Companion Dog

CDX

Companion Dog Excellent

OTCh

Obedience Trial Champion (prefix)

TD

Tracking Dog

TDX

Tracking Dog Excellent

UD

Utility Dog

UDT

Utility Dog title with a Tracking Dog title

UDTX

Utility Dog title with a Tracking Dog Excellent title

UDX

Utility Dog Excellent

NOTE 2: UDX is a new AKC title for dogs that qualify at both Open and Utility on the same day at ten different shows. Must already have UD. Combined titles (UDX + TD/TDX) not yet announced.

NOTE 3: AKC is coming out with the VTD (variable tracking dog) title, where the track goes across concrete or asphalt as well as grass and dirt. Not yet verified/announced.

Obedience titles - UKC (all prefixes)

U-CD

Companion Dog

U-CDX

Companion Dog Excellence

U-UD

Utility Dog

Conversational acronyms

BJ

Broad Jump or Bar Jump (context)

BTW

By The Way

DJ

Directed Jumping

DOR

Drop on Recall

F8

Figure Eight

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

IMHO

In My Honest Opinion

OTOH

On The Other Hand

ROF

Retrieve on the Flat

ROTF

Rolling on the Floor (amusement)

ROH

Retrieve over the High Jump

Glossary

Pattern training

Jackpots

Backchaining

Operant conditioning

Attention

Motivational training

Behavior shaping

Touchsticks and clickers

Resources

Favorite suppliers

obedience supplies, including a dumbbell with a nylabone dowel

Capital Leashes
Jerusha Gurvin
6001 Johnson Ave.
Bethesda, MD
301 530 2164

custom made leather leashes and collars

custom made dumbbells and scent articles

leashes, collars, dumbells, jumps, specialized training equipment

for patches with titles

high quality obedience supplies

1-800-268-3716 (canadian only?)

Ray Allen Manufacturing Co. Inc.
P.O. Box 9281
Colorado Springs, CO 80932-0281
tel: 1-800-444-0404 orders only
1-719-633-0404 cust. service

working dog supplies (schutzhund, obed. ring, etc.)

Obedience items for small dogs: utility gloves XX Small, Micro Prong collar (for all sizes), etc.

Clickers in 5-paks, Karen Pryor's books, Pryor/Willkins training videos

Dog books of ALL kinds (best selection) plus clickers

Lightweight crates for well behaved dogs.

Lightweight crates for well behaved dogs.

Lightweight crates for well behaved dogs.

Lightweight crates for well behaved dogs.

Organizations

bimonthly newsletter; works to promote responsible dog-ownership and fights anti-dog legislation

Magazines

6 issues per year - UKC magazine, Jan. issue contains Rules for year.

General obedience related information, newspaper format.

Off Lead
204 Lewis Street
Canastota, NY 13032
315 697 2749
104501,1527@Compuserve.com
$23.00 (US) per year 12 issues

AKC Gazette
5580 Centerview Dr., Suite 200
Raleigh, NC 27606-0643
tel: 1-919-233-9780

Offical AKC publication, lists all AKC-approved shows & contains variety of articles

Videos

AKC Videos

• 200?
• A Day with An Obedience Judge

These videos are out of date and rather expensive. (rg)

CKC

• Dogs in Canada

Order from
43 Railside Rd.,
Don Mills, Ont. M3A 3L9
(416)441-3228

Arnold, Terri

• Attention and Handling - The Birth of Teamwork

Addresses attention. This video tape includes an audio cassette along with the video.

This tape can be ordered through J&J and other catalogues.

DeMello, Janice *The Around the Clock Method of Scent Discrimination *Massage Ear-Pinch Method of Force Retrieve *Go Outs - The Concept of Straight *The Eight Week course on Attention Each tape order includes a handout or booklet that summarizes the method. Each tape is very throrough in its description of the progression and addresses many of the common problems associated with teaching the exercise. I highly recommend all of these tapes. (ngl)

(About Around the Clock Scent Discrimination) Really good and very useful. But she does go into excruciating detail and I found I fast forwarded through the middle section. I can still remember her saying over and over "Reheat rescent recheese!" But it worked very well for my dog and I recommend it. It's a nice alternative to the traditional tie down method. (tc)

(About 8 Week Attention Course) Really good. I used her method and it worked well for my dog. The only thing I didn't like was I wished she used untrained dogs so she could show a correction. She would say "if Stride looked away I would do XXX." Well, Stride was great and never did look away! (tc)

Prices:

• The Eight Week course on Attention (includes the booklet) ($60)
• The Around the Clock Method of Scent Discrimination ($54)
  (Reviewed by Heather Nadelman in October '94 F&F)
• Massage Ear-Pinch Method of Force Retrieve ($54)
• Go Outs - The Concept of Straight ($54)
• Are You Really Ready ($50)
  (Reviewed by Nancy Gagliardi Little in October '94 of F&F)

For the fastest delivery, send a money order to (the address was checked and confirmed in June of 1995):

Janice DeMello
Hob Nob Productions
PO Box 458
Alexandria, IN 46001

Elliot, Rachel Page

• DogSteps

A fabulous video that visually shows correct and incorrect structure in various breeds. (ngl)

Handler, Barbara

• Successful Obedience Handling: The NEW Best Foot Forward

This video tape is a video version of the book. The tape shows matches, do's and don'ts, talks about entering your dog, what to expect, etc. (bn)

Pryor, Karen

• Click!
• Shaping

With Gary Wilkes. "Click!" explores the use of the clicker as a secondary reinforcer and how operant conditioning can be applied to dog training. This was filmed at actual seminars. (kw)

"Shaping" goes in depth on how to use shaping and secondary reinforcers in dog training. You should view this one first, in my opinion, even though it is second in the series. (kw)

Available from Publishers's Book Distributors at 800-47-CLICK.

Silverton, Annemarie

• Puppy Training
• Novice
• Open
• Utility
• Problem Solving in Open
• Problem Solving in Utility
• Problem Solving in Heeling - Focused Attention

These tapes are well made with an abundance of information. It would be handy if there were a handout with the summary, since the amount of information is almost overwhelming. One other drawback with this series is that as the tapes progress, they make many references to previous tapes. So if a person wanted to buy only the Focused Attention tape, there is alot of reference to the Novice and Puppy tapes. (ngl) They're full of good information, but you have to watch them very carefully. Sometimes she will show a dog doing an exercise or learning something but necessarily explain everything. The Puppy and Novice tapes go over all the foundation work. You really need to watch those before the Open and Utilty. Also, the Open and Utility tapes are shorter than Puppy and Novice and you might feel like you didn't get your money's work. I really liked the Focused Attention one since lack of attention causes problems in everything! (tc)

These tapes can be ordered through J&J and quite possibly other places like R.C. Steele and other book/video catalogs.

Volhard & Fisher

• The Volhard & Fisher Training Video Tapes

These tapes use HIGHLY trained dogs to demonstrate the exercises, which isn't necessarily any more useful than reading a description of them in a book. (rg)

Wilkes, Gary

• Touch!

This goes with the two Pryor tapes. This he produced on his own. It explores how to use the Touch Stick in dog training, and is applied to exercises in Obedience and Agility on the tape. For example, he shows how to use the touch stick to teach the go-out. (kw)

Available from Publishers's Book Distributors at 800-47-CLICK.

Books

Terri Arnold has written a series of three books (with help from Ann Paul) that are: "A positive and precise approach for the competitive trainer of the 90's. Clear, concise, and easy to understand. Complete step-by-step detail of each obedience exercise with beautiful photographs to enhance your learning."

Heavily illustrated with color photos. A sensible approach to laying a good foundation for extensive obedience training (even if you don't take the dog any further than what's outlined in here). Simple instructions for teaching a 20-word language, with emphasis on understanding and building on previous work.

Bauman, Diane L. Beyond Basic Dog Training. New, updated edition. Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York. 1991. ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.

Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a pattern-trained dog. Extensive manual on obedience training. Communication and understanding are discussed. A well known and often recommended book

Includes puzzles, questions and answers, games, exercises to deal with nervousness in the ring, charts and tables to track your dog's progress, record training progress and problems. Its intended use is one copy for each dog you train.

Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between an owner and his dog, and this book profides some ideas on establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young. This book is probably the most widely recommended for puppy owners.

This book has more tricks in it than you will even dream of teaching your dog, complete with descriptions of how to teach each trick. In the back they have a listing by breed of tricks that are especially suitable or unsuitable for that breed.

Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands. This is a thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it. They stress that by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later, more formal training goes much easier.

An excellent book that describes how to use play to motivate your dog through obedience training. She focuses on how to teach each exercise in the AKC Novice, Open, and Utility classes. Her philosophy, though, lends itself to any type of training. Well written and informative. For you greyhound lovers, all her dogs and inside photos are of greyhounds.

A step-by-step practical training guide for air scent, evidence search, disaster search and the AKC tracking test. Starts with young puppies. Well illustrated and methods extensively tested at Los Alamos' Mountain Canine Corps.

From the flyer: "COMPETITIVE OBEDIENCE TRAINING FOR THE SMALL DOG guides you, in over 200 pages, from puppy socialization through Utility in an easy-to-follow progression of inducive training. This new book - the only one of its kind - is a self-help manual and competitive edge for every small-dog owner unwilling to use traditional big-dog training techniques. This book is for every small-dog owner training in obedience; for the trainer working with a *soft* dog of any size; and for every trainer eager to utilize the *why* and *how* of inducive training."

A readable book that applies to all aspects of everyday training and building a good relationship with your dog. Her method maximizes using your dog's intelligence and your good relationship with your pet and minimizes the use of force. It takes things all the way from housebreaking the new dog through the basic obedience exercises and includes chapters on aggression and moving on to off-leash work with your dog.

Fisher, John. Dogwise.

The author is a well known UK behaviourist and ex-service dog trainer. Dogwise follows the selection of a eight month rescue GSD and his Police Dog handler through a 12 week course using only positive reinforcement and the final exaimination qualifying the dog to work with the London Met to the HMSO. The focus is on the training methods more than on police work.

This appears to be the best, most comprehensive book summarizing current research on canine psychology and behavior. You won't find much in the way of how-to instructions, but you will find alot of hard facts on every aspect of the canine mind and personality. This book is well-written and very readable even by the layperson.

Tips for dogs shown both in conformation and in obedience. Some good hints, particularly from Ammen.

A guide to showing and handling in the obedience rings. It covers how to enter shows, what to do on the day, and how to avoid handling errors. Updated and revised from _Best Foot Forward_. A must for anyone participating in AKC obedience trials.

Covers training from puppy kindergarten through utility. Good hints and illustrations.

Koehler's methods are considered unusually harsh and counterproductive by some modern trainers. On the other hand, his methods do have a history of success with dogs that have "hard" temperaments. Modern-day competitive obedience dogs are not trained with his methods anymore.

The monks of New Skete have put together an excellent book that discusses puppy development and the things that should be done at the appropriate stages and why. First they follow a newborn litter through its various stages of development and at each stage they discuss what is happening. They discuss testing puppies' temperaments and what you want to look for, under which circumstances. They discuss briefly dog breeds, and how to find reputable breeders. They then launch into a series of useful chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general care. A good bibliography is provided at the back.

More inspirational than instructional.

Pryor, Karen. Don't Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and Training by Karen Pryor. Bantam, New York. 1985. c1984.

She presents different behavioralistic techniques for dealing with several example situations (i.e. "Dog barks all night", "Roommate leaves dirty laundry all over apartment," "Bus driver is rude," etc.) This would NOT be a good book for someone who wanted to teach their dog to sit and come, but it discusses how the trainer's actions "shape" the trainee's responses. Definitely a must-read for people who are interested in "inducive" training, and should be thought-provoking for any trainer who is thinking about training on a higher level than "When the dog does this, give him a good collar correction"--but experienced dog trainers will find a lot to quibble about in what she says.

This is the story of how Karen Pryor got into operant conditioning. It tells the story of how she trained animals, not just dolphins, using the principals explored in _Don't Shoot the Dog_. $12.95

Rose, Tom and Gary Patterson. Training the Competitive Working Dog. 1985 Giblaut Publishing Company 3333 S. Bannock, Suite 950, Englewood,CO 80110.

The Rose book is getting obsolete, particularly the obedience section (Tom now uses much more motivational techniques) but here is still alot of good theory and practical exercises.

Strickland is a well known dog trainer. Covers all aspects of training and competition including the formal training for AKC obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking). Includes some general care (health and feeding) tips. Author has also written

Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs

.

Tucker is an ex GDB instructor and his books are easy to read and follow. His others are Dog Training Made Easy, Solving Your Dog Problems.

Weston, David. Dog Training: The Gentle Method.

Zink, M. Christine, DVM, PHD. Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine Athlete. Howell Book House, 1992. ISBN: 0-87605-757-1. Book available from the author at 1907 Eastridge Rd., Timonium, MD 21093.

If you are doing serious obedience competition with your dog, you need to understand how to keep him in good shape for the work. This eminently readable book goes over canine physiology, both internal and structural. She covers how to keep your dog in general good shape, discusses some conditioning strategies, and finally details a number of possible impediments to conditioning your dog, including: genetic and traumatic joint problems and lameness, the effects of medication on your dog, and moreover lists all the things you need to consider when trying to keep your dog fit and healthy.

Canine Activities: Obedience Trials
Cindy Moore, rpd-info@netcom.com Hosted by